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Walking in Waikiki

"Let's Stroll Through Asia!"  With Cloudia Charters 9.23.07

            All my friends and family have heard it over and over again: I love Chinatown!  For a city kid like me, Honolulu's Chinatown is familiar "mother street." The grit, the small streets full of vehicles, a multiplicity of languages, old buildings and a million little family shops, all make me feel very much at home.  "Yo! I'm walkin` here!" 

            Loving a place, as I do America's oldest Chinatown, means having favorite defunct restaurants/buildings/signs, and forever-magical spots like King St. & Smith where I bumped into Morgan Freeman one midnight as Chinese Opera music wafted from an upper window.  

            Love affairs are not clear-eyed; there is always mystery.  And especially in the case of Chinatown, for haole ole me, there has always been that certain veil. I might read about the old opium and gambling den days, know the former sights of plantation era dime-a-dance palaces, might even say "Nihau" or "Gung Hee Fat Choy" at my favorite Dim Sum place with total sincerity, but there is just no way into the secret truth of the Chinatown Community without the kindness of a trusted guide.  Such is 3 rd generation resident Anthony Chang,

            Along with about a dozen other locals one recent Saturday morning, I was fortunate to join Mr. C's monthly strolling tour through the neighborhood he knows so well.  And vice versa! It was like being in the entourage of a celebrity.  Everywhere we went, neighborhood folks greeted our host with warm smiles, and this included in the back rooms of small noodle factories, butcher shops, and tiny restaurants gearing up for the day. 

            Watching sheets of rice noodle being made from scratch we learned that the proprietors add the drippings of roasted meat (from the butcher next door) to some of the noodles to suit Chinese taste, but keep other batches meat-free for the Vietnamese who prefer them that way.  You see, not only is Vietnam strongly Buddhist (and therefore largely vegetarian) it is also the farthest from the spices of India and deeper Asia.  Now I understand why Vietnamese food is so fresh and clean to the palate!

            Ancient China had few trees, so folks cooked over grass flames: fast and hot.  This gave birth to the stir-fry method, which quickly "bursts" and caramelizes the cells on the surface of your food, sealing flavorful juices inside where they wait to explode on the tongue like a Shanghai soup dumpling.  Each village, if large enough, had a central shop, which roasted the meat for everyone.  This is why roasted ducks and pigs are displayed in the familiar fashion one sees in Chinatowns throughout the world.

            Here's a tip: it is the Chinese custom to go food shopping early in the day.  So the very best shops are found on the morning-shady side of the street!  If you see a similar shop across the street, it's probably second best, though still worthy, and you might find shorter lines over there as well.  If you're in a hurry, your guests will never know the difference. Shhhhh!

            The ancient Hawaiian Village of Kou sat where the Foster Botanical Garden and the lovely Kwan Yin Temple stand today on the mauka side of Vineyard Boulevard, which itself is named after the vineyards established there by early Portuguese resident Juan Marin on land granted him by the king.  [Marin was reportedly not as generous with his harvests, opting to sell his provisions to the ships in the harbor rather than to share them with his neighbors.  This made quite an impression on them which lives on today in the Hawaiian word: "manini" which means "tight" or "ungenerous."] 

            Today's Chinatown, bounded by Alakea, Vineyard, River, and Nimitz, had always been a sparsely populated marshy area.  The solid land around the Iolani Palace and Kawaihao Church was dominated by the government and by commerce, leaving the less desirable area west of Nu`uanu affordable to immigrants.  You can see a nice pair of stone lions at Bethel and Hotel Streets guarding the old boundary.  They are a gift from our sister city Zhongshan China, whose officials are expected to be here for the dedication of a new statue of Sun Yat Sen (portraying his Honolulu schoolboy days) now being cast for us in China. 

            Malaysian, Vietnamese, and Filipino restaurants have sprung up in recent years, as the area is constantly refreshed by today's immigrants.  But why "Soul De Cuba?" someone asked.  That's because early Chinese immigrants to Cuba played an important part in the war against colonial Spain, and added their food-wisdom to the African and Creole culinary traditions that gave birth to Cuba's food heritage.  Who knew?! 

            Space does not permit me to rhapsodize here over all the wonderful little restaurants and food stalls – you really owe yourself a Chinatown adventure of your own, but I would be remiss if I didn't point out one of my personal favorites: Duc's Bistro on Maunakea (Chinatown's "Main Street").  This wonderful little enclave is a welcoming and civilized place for excellent French-influenced cuisine, the best in atmosphere and live music, all hosted by the man himself, Duc.  I love to sit at the tastefully lit bar and treat myself to a bowl of their signature lobster bisque.  It's easy to think that I'm in classy New York, or visiting Paris. Not "cheap," but well worth it. Check them out!

            Gorging myself at a Dim Sum palace on River Walk with our group, I decided to try chicken feet for the first time.  They were sort of like tiny, savory, Buffalo wings!  "Probably the loser." Said one of the guys, alluding to the chicken fights still held in our rural districts.  Yes, it was a day of illumination and of firsts, but my favorite local treasure turned out to be Mr. Liu who has a small stand in the lobby of a building on the makai side of King Street's first (second) block. 

            Mr. Liu is a true artist, trained in the traditional arts as a boy in China. One can purchase custom calligraphy, lovely paper-cut art, or even have a genuine Chinese seal ("chop") carved to use on your important documents or artworks.  But the really interesting thing about Mr. Liu is how he raised his three children in this new land, and put them all through prestigious colleges where they excelled in professional programs.  You see, this talented artist spent years earning his living in Chinatown by cutting meat as a butcher!  I was glad to see that, yes, he still has all his skillful fingers and displays the soul of a true artist.  Be sure to stop by for some affordable and elegant art when you explore the world's best Chinatown for yourself.  .  .  And be sure to stop me and say "Aloha" the next time you are walking in Waikiki.  

Be sure to check out Cloudia's Hawaii Novel "Aloha Where You Like Go?" at Amazon.com or local bookstores!  Contact her about performing YOUR AFFORDABLE BEACH WEDDING at cloudia.charters@gmail.com

 


Editor's note:  A few sample chapter's of the editor's new novel is presented below.  If you wish to be emailed the entire book, a file less than 1 megabite, please send a check for $15 to Alvin Koo, 1741 Ala Moana #67, Honolulu, HI  96815 and note for Kihei Past Perfect with your email address.  Or send me a comment.  I'd love to hear from you: papaalhawaii@hotmail.com

 

KIHEI PAST PERFECT, A Hawaii Mystery

By Alvin Koo, 8.1.07, 9.17.07

 

            Life had been almost perfect before I met Andrew's father.  You know almost perfect; it’s finding that spot on the beach in the early morning, that light breeze against your skin, laying out your towel just right, putting the sun shade over your eyes and having someone plop down beside you with hip hop blaring from a boom box.

            I knew almost perfect the minute Gus began talking.  Making me take this case was a con.  It went against my thinking half.  Gus was a con by nature.  He loved it.  He couldn’t help it.  I met him when I arrested him for selling the lost burial cave of Kamehameha seven times in three weeks.  He always looked to press the love button on people.  It was the challenge for him.  Most people bought the cave to help the poor, poor native Hawaiians.  Some cons, most actually, work with the greed button.  Any idiot can press the greed button, Gus said.  I guess Gus has this very believable look.

            “I know you won’t want to do this,” he said.  “I know you’ll say it’s the last thing in the world you want.  You’ll take one look at this guy and want to wring my neck.  I know.”

            Gus was referring, of course, to Andrew’s father.

            “But for me, for me, John, do it for me.  Just listen to the guy.  It’s a good cause.  An easy case.  Open and shut.  And I’ll throw in a surprise bonus.”

            Gus got that from watching too many game shows. 

            And whenever he says, “Do it for me, John,”  I know it’s the last thing I want to do.  He always plays the deep friendship, loyalty card way up front.  That way he can stomp on that button more than once.  All great scams work the goodness in your heart button, the eleemosynary side of you.  It has happened to me before, I  knew it would happen to me again. “John,” Gus says, “You know I have your best interests at heart.”

            What Gus means is that he knows he shouldn’t let his selfish ways over-ride his common sense interest in keeping me as a friend instead of an enemy.

            “Gus,” I said, “what is so wrong with this guy that I get the surprise bonus thrown in up front.”

            Gus looked at me with that simple smile he has.  I suppose it has melted many a middle-aged woman’s heart.

            “You’ll know when you meet him,” Gus said.

            By that, he meant Andy’s father.

            My name is John Makākiu.  I live in Kihei, Maui.  I’m trying to be as private an eye as a private detective can be.  My number is unlisted.  I  don’t have anything in the yellow pages.  My only advertising is a sign outside Tadaki’s Kihei Barbershop, which says in simple block letters,  Private Investigations, Inquire Within.  Gus Baniaga is my number one man, an ex-con I helped straighten out when I was a lieutenant of detectives on the HPD.  Gus is by nature a happy-go-lucky kind of guy, almost basically honest, but he can’t stomach working eight hours a day.  He tried running numbers, breaking and entering, which is exciting until you get caught, and bunco.  He drives tours on the side.

            Almost perfect also means Kihei, Maui.  Twelve miles from the airport.  On the side of a huge mountain called Haleakala.  I like it because it’s blue collar.  It’s filled with low to medium priced condominiums, low end hotels, and a string of strip malls that house ticky tacky tee shirt shops, trinkets, Denny’s, and some local services like a bank, post office and a small police sub-station.  This keeps the uppity snobs away.  But the beaches are the same fine sand, clear water and gentle waves as those next door in Lifestyles of the Rich and Famous Wailea, where you can find the Four Seasons, Fairmont, Tony Bahama’s and Longhi’s.  On an average day, it’s 85 degrees with a light breeze.  And I feel like I hit the jackpot whenever I watch the sunset over the ocean from Kamaole II, my favorite beach.

            Andrew’s father was the kind of guy I feared most as a career public servant.  He didn’t give a damn how you felt.  There was only one feeling that counted.  His.  Gus told me the old man was a bully.  It was all I needed to know. Gus is a good reader of people.  “Don’t make any decisions when you first meet him.”  Why would anyone say such a thing unless it was a con.

            I told Gus to meet me at Kamaole II hoping the inherent beauty of the place would help keep everyone cool.  I knew it was a bad idea when I saw Whitcomb approaching.  He towered above his wife and was talking down at her, pumping his hand, finger pointed, as he plodded, like a wounded water buffalo, down the small slope to the beach.  He was wearing safari shorts, full calf socks, black leather dress shoes and a deep blue and bright red aloha shirt.  Right there, I knew, I wasn’t going to let this guy push me around.

            “John,” Gus said, “I would like to introduce Angela Whitcomb.”

            Gus was smiling.  He knew my weakness for pretty women.  She was petite, a few pounds above her high school weight, wore a floppy straw hat, and had on a what looked like lace for a bodice.  I am a sucker for lace.  It is amazing to me how much I have suffered and how far I have gone to please a woman dressed in lace.

            Whitcomb had a big belly, red face, narrow eyes and a frown.  He leaned forward as if about to say something, his mouth twisted.  I could hear him breathing hard.  I was surprised he didn’t say anything.  I’ve been cussed at by the best.  I’m a retired Honolulu cop. I could feel my temper shortening.   Just a grand a month, I keep telling Gus.  Easy cases.  Just for some going out cash.  I didn’t bother to offer Paul Evans a hand.

            “Mr. Ma… Makā…,” Mrs. Whitcomb said.

            “Makākiu,” Gus offered.

            “Ma…,” she tried again.  “And I practiced so much to get it right.”

            She held out her hand.  Perfectly charming.   Like a ray of sun bursting through the clouds.

            “And this is Paul Evans Whitcomb.”

            Whitcomb looked away.

            “The Whitcombs are from Fountain Run,” Gus said. 

            “Kentucky,” Mrs. Whitcomb said.  She smiled often and naturally.  She seemed to be a happy person, which was odd, considering her husband.

            “They’re really nice people,” Gus said.

            Mrs. Whitcomb smiled and nodded.

            “John can do anything,” Gus said.

            Gus wants me to take jobs to augment his income.  He would love to get enough time with me to apply for a private eye’s license.  I don’t know if he has the moral aptitude.

            “Where is Fountain Run,” I said.  I wanted to get a perspective on what she thought a big city was.

            “Why,” she said.  I could catch the slight Southern drawl then.  “It’s over toward Bowling Green.”

            I nodded like I knew where that was. I glanced at the quickly darkening ocean.  Gus unrolled one of the those $.98 straw mats from ABC.

            The man took a step away.  His mouth moved.  He turned toward the sea, giving me a sideview.  His lower jaw jutted out.  I joined Mrs. Whitcomb on the mat.  If it weren’t for him, the beach would have been perfect.  There was a light 15 knot breeze coming off the sea, the sun was just going down behind Lanai, burnt orange, the waves were one to three, the beach was nearly deserted, the color of water was a deep blue and the sky was purple and azure, low across the horizon, a deep rich color higher up.  A golden plover skittered across the sand fifty feet away.  I could hear the sound of surf, and the cars were dim in the distance.  Paul Evans cleared his throat.

            “Tell me about it,” I said, against my own wishes.

            “Andy is missing,” Gus said. 

            “Andrew,” Mrs. Whitcomb said.

            “Andrew is missing,” Gus said.

            She said he had graduated college and moved to Maui for a year.  He had always called every week.  Every week.  He was just beginning to find himself.  Coming out of his chronic shyness.  They were expecting that he would come home soon to start taking over the family business.  When they hadn’t heard, they came over themselves.  I could just see this skinny kid being browbeaten by his father and spoiled by this Kentucky belle, sentenced to a lifetime of being under their thumb.

            “The Whitcombs suspect foul play,” Gus said.

            “We want you to find him, bring him back,” Mrs. Whitcomb said.  She touched her eye with the corner of a tissue.  Paul Evans sucked in air as if he was going to growl, but he didn’t.

            I couldn’t help myself.

            “And what do you say, Mr. Whitcomb.”

            He whirled toward me, his hand coming up, his finger pointed at my heart.  I know I shifted my weight.  I broke a man’s finger once who pointed his finger at me the way Whitcomb was about to do.   It’s the one thing I couldn’t stand as a public servant.  Having to smile and take it, take anything, smile, when people pushed you around, because you wanted that retirement.  Well, I took it for 30 years.  I smiled and I laughed and I got the retirement and I wouldn’t stand for it any longer.  I could feel myself subconsciously flexing.  Mrs. Whitcomb slipped her arm in his, and he half-carried her up coming at me.  I drew back and was a half second from throwing a punch when Gus held up his hand and Whitcomb stopped.  Gus shook his finger.  I was amazed.

            “You don’t want to do that,” Gus said to Whitcomb.

            You could almost see steam coming off Whitcomb.  I thought he was going to have a heart attack.

            Missing? 

            I would say Andy had run away.

 


Kailua-Kona at dawn.  Papa Al  9.13.07


When's the last time you saw a country road with a 35 mph speed limit?  Photo by Cloudia Charters

Walking in Waikiki
Moon’s a Copper Penny with Cloudia Charters 9.6.07

There's no place like home; the boat, the sea, and neighbors like Patty the three flippered Honu (Hawaiian Green Sea Turtle) who we've lately seen grazing on harbor limu and flying gracefully upward to break the surface, there to take a deep breath, and blink thoughtfully, as if she's saying "Good morning, you. Welcome back."   What a way to start the day! Our stay in the purgatory of dry dock is over, and the boat is back in the water.  .   .  where boats belong!

The night of August 27/28 gave Hawaii the best view anyone on Earth could have of the deepest and longest lunar eclipse in 7 years.  Out on deck, lying on my back around midnight, I could see the spooky darkening begin on the Moon's left edge.  An eclipse is weird and exciting, don't you think?   It's like a river running backwards for a short time when sudden dusk, and nighttime darkness hush the midday rush.  The birds always seem shocked, whispering among themselves: "What do you think is happening?!"   And remember not to look! That is forbidden.  .  . 

Ah, but that's the flashy solar eclipse.   The distaff lunar eclipse, occurring while most of the world sleeps, is an intimacy of magical sleepy thoughts.  Waiting for the shadow to spread, looking ever upward, there is time to appreciate the stately progress of sliver cloud galleons gliding overhead, and to join in the merriment among all the brave little stars that we hardly even notice anymore.   The sky's an amphitheater. Moon takes center stage.  Yes!  It's really happening!   The moon is disappearing a little at a time. 

Full at first, then nibbled, then less.  Three tiny stars nearby grow bold; they have a front row seat.   Will the clouds hold back?  Will we see totality?  It's an ancient drama of the skies.   And then.  .  . then, YES! More and more the moon grows dark, and vaguely red.  One strange, lone cry of a flying bird punctuates the somehow quieter night. The moon's bright silver retreats to her right side, all the while growing/glowing reddish till it's a new copper penny dipped in silver.  

A gecko laughs, then a single fish splashes just once nearby, so loud and long and clear.  Lying on the stern of my boat, my home, a loved one sleeping nearby, I watch the vaguely glowing orb as it hides and seeks among the patient unceasing clouds until the last bit of lunar silver bulges like a cornea.   Emboldened stars even nearer the changeling moon reveal themselves.  Having glimpsed the stately progression, and even bathed in the infrared of totality, I tumble below decks to my bed.   .  .  to dream of nights and moons; of unearthly skies, giant clock-works, and a deep rich red raining down in the night, like the inside of God's eyelids as He squeezes them closed.   .  .  to form a single tear.  .   .

"To sense that behind anything that can be experienced there is a something that our mind cannot grasp and whose beauty and sublimity reaches us only indirectly and as a feeble reflection, this is religiousness," Albert Einstein.  .  . 

Now from the sublime to the merely important.  I have been excited about the idea of driving aboard a ferry, and then driving off to visit friends and relatives on the neighbor islands, in fact I've mentioned the Hawaii Super Ferry here more than once.  Like most local folks I had assumed that our state government was overseeing the impacts of such a significant change in our islands.  

It appears that we may have been wrong.  Quietly, and for a long time, local residents, particularly on Maui, concerned about traffic and environmental impacts on their island, have been asking for an environmental impact study to be conducted.   Rather than meet with them, the Ferry Folks relied on the apparent assurances of our state officials, and went ahead with their plans.  Strange how things work out, but it was on a Friday, just before the Monday that the Ferry was to begin service, that legal authorities finally heard the citizens request and issued an injunction to delay the ferry service to Maui.  

Now this is the important part:  Rather than to delay service, the Hawaii Super Ferry began service EARLIER than planned over the weekend, even offering $5 fares.   Something about this felt rude to some people.  It was as if the new kid on the playground wanted to play RIGHT NOW, before being properly introduced and integrated.   Protesters on Kauai evidently felt the same, and met the boat in droves preventing it's docking in Nawiliwili Harbor.

The Coastguard deserves applause for their judicious handling of events as no one was injured.   Judge Cardoza, speaking about the injunction, said that it is important to consider effects on traffic, CULTURE, and environment.  Senator Inouye suggested Ho`oponopono, the ancient Hawaiian art of LISTENING to each other to resolve problems.  Listening to each other is supposedly more respected than asserting your rights forcefully in our island culture, and some folks are saying that the impact study would be finished by now if the company had only cooperated.

Remember the Nene and the Kolea? Well I forgot a third category of isle newcomers: the Invasive Species.  I guess we have yet to know which the Super Ferry will turn out to be.   Stay tuned to this unfolding drama that clearly has two sides pro and con.  I just felt that you should know the scoops before you make any plans.   .  . On the bright side, our oldest airline Hawaiian Air has inaugurated daily service to the Philippines.   This is good news for our friends and neighbors with strong family ties in both island groups, and a promising opportunity for increased business and tourism from both sides.  .  . 

I'm fickle fickle fickle!  Last time it was ducks over Diamond Head, this week I'm gaga over Hank the black crowned night heron (auku`u) of Ko`olina.  Hank lives in a cushy water feature on the golf course, just beside a charming restaurant.   No one's sure exactly when, but Hank is even better at fishing than your average heron, you see, he has learned to use bread as bait.  Carefully placing it on the water, he watches intently for a nibble, then scoops up his distracted meal-with-bread-stuffing.   Carol Cox our local citizen advocate and all around good guy says that Hank and the missus taught a clutch of fledglings the same trick last year.  You like make friends in Hawaii? Go fishing.  If that's not your style you're always welcome to join me.  .   .  walking in Waikiki.  .  .   Aloha!   

Be sure to check out Cloudia’s Hawaii Novel “Aloha Where You Like Go?” at Amazon.com or local bookstores!  Contact her about performing YOUR AFFORDABLE BEACH WEDDING at cloudia.charters@gmail.com

 


A little hike on the windward side by kala@hckt.org Honolulu Daily Photos 9.2.07


KIHEI PAST PERFECT, A Hawaii Mystery

By Alvin Koo, 8.26.07, comments to papaalhawaii@hotmail.com

3

            From there, the Kiawe looked absolutely empty.  After about ten minutes, I was antsy.  I could walk the strip and show Andy’s picture around like the Whitcomb’s had done.  I knew people and the results would be different.  People had to recognize him after living in Kihei a year.  I could check the airport, if he left the island and didn’t return unexpectedly, his car might still be there.  Or impounded.  I could check the phone company.  I might ask Gus to see if he could get any long distance records. Of course, for a PI, that’s strictly illegal.  You need to know somebody to get that kind of information.  But the phone company is so big, you don’t need to know somebody big.  Just somebody with access.  I could have done all this, but I knew what I would find.  So, I sat back a few minutes more.

            The nervous janitor came around the back and saw me about the same time I saw him.  He moved in odd, quick short spurts.  His head would jerk, he hitched his shoulder, did something with his elbow sticking out.  The kid did a quick 180 and disappeared behind the building.  I immediately got up and crossed the street.  By the time I had turned the corner of the Kiawe, the kid was walking down a backyard trail toward alleys that ran from Kanoe to South Kihei.  I would have had to run to catch up, and I didn’t feel like the drama, so I stopped.  I knew I’d catch him sooner or later.  My next stop was the strip.

            Kihei is a wonderful town that runs nine miles from the first condos near the Kealia Beach junction between the airport road and the road to Ma‘alaea.  In the old days, it was just a dusty two lane road leading along beaches lined with kiawe at a time when locals thought kiawe was a bad tree that dropped inch long thorns into the sand waiting to ambush barefooted children.  Upper Kihei or north Kihei was thought to be hot and windy during the afternoons and nice only because the beaches were deserted and great for kids.  The water wasn’t even clear.  And few people had the four wheel drives or nerve needed to get further back to the crystal waters of Wailea or Makena.  Those beaches, which today are gems called Ulua and Polo and others, were urban legends whispered about in Kahului and Wailuku those many years ago.  I remember catching a five pound papio at Wailea in the 60’s, when the Maui Lu, was being built a few miles away along the top of South Kihei Road.  It was one of the highlights of my then young life.

            South Kihei, where I live, at the border to Wailea, is called by some of the old-timers the spoiled part of Kihei.  I don’t think so.  The boulevard is laced, like a lei, with strip malls strung, some people say ticky tacky, between condos with names like Shores of Maui, Kama‘ole Beach Royale, and Kihei Kai Nani.  I prefer to think of this as quaint.  Also convenient. I get the wonderful south Kihei beach, crystal water, next to ABC and Golden Dragon Chop Suey and Lucy’s Bar, all very nice I think.  Everything I want.

            I tried Bobo in the ABC Store at Rainbow Mall first.  Bobo is my idea of eccentric and local color all wrapped up in one.  They say she was a hippie back in the days when Makena was inaccessible to most.  Nowadays, she was just a happy early 50’s long straight hair, blonde graying white, who knew a lot of local lore and kept her eyes open.  It was funny that she liked working in the ABC, which to me is the epitome of a boring job, you don’t even get to chat with most customers, but Bobo called it a low demand line job and compared it favorably to heat stricken, back breaking plantation or mind-numbing cannery work.  She looked at the picture and twisted it and cocked her head trying to jog some lost memory loose.

            “Of course, I’ve seen him,” she said.

            I nodded patiently.  ABC Stores have mastered retail marketing, end capping their shelves with perennial discount leaders of mac nuts and suntan lotion at the front of the store.  The manager at this store must have had a creative streak in him because he typically experimented with a few inches of front shelf space on untested items.  This day he had condoms in tropical fruit flavoring in his try-this space.  If I wasn’t working I would have taken some time to examine that more carefully.

            “I just can’t remember what I know about him.”

            “I’m told he was a nice kid, probably a little on the quiet side. You probably had to draw him out after you had seen him a few times.”

             “Hmmm, that rings a bell.”

            I like standing in ABC’s because they are generous with their air conditioning, which is effective in a very sunny resort area.

            “Actually, he didn’t come in often, but I know I’ve talked to him. Let me think about it.”

            Bobo looked down and up and flashed her big blue eyes at me.

            “Why don’t you come back after awhile.  I’ll remember something.”

            A dozen times, more or less, probably less, the Whitcombs walked the strip and they couldn’t find out a thing about their son.  The first stop and I already connect.  Tells you something about Paul Evans Whitcomb.

            I didn’t expect Charlyn at the Little Shanghai Boutique and Gift to have anything on Andy.  I didn’t expect that a guy would have much reason to often visit a tourist gift store, but I liked to flirt with Charlyn and I didn’t need much reason to visit her.  Besides, in a good investigation, the inquirer should leave no stone unturned.  One should never disregard something because it looks like it obviously will not pay out.  You never know what you will find if you keep asking the same question over and over.  Inside the shop were Chinese cheong-sams, those embroidered, tight, high collared dresses that Suzie Wong wore, lots of trinkets and several Buddhas, some in plastic, a couple of them stone, all smaller than the head on Andy’s table.

            Charlyn looked at the picture and just shook her head.

            “How much do those sell for?” I indicated the Buddha statues.

            “Why? Are you interested in one?”

            I frowned.

            “Sixteen fifty on up.”

             “To?”

            Now Charlyn frowned. She walked around the counter to the Buddhas and picked up the largest one, about a foot high, sitting in stone, with a serene smile.

            “Three hundred.”

            “Do any come as a head alone?”

            “Sure.”

            “But like a foot high?”  I held my hands to indicate an approximate height.  She shook her head no.  I should’ve figured, but it surprised me.

            “Does anyone make them like that?”
            “Just the head alone, big like that?”  She paused to think.  “No, I don’t think so.  I’ve never seen one.  Something that big, I think it would have to be real.”

            “You know anyplace that sells real antiques on Maui?”

            “No. You might see something in Honolulu, in the art academy. But not in Maui.”

            She stood there, smiling, flirting wordlessly with her lips and hips.  I dangled the picture back at her.  Sometimes, you have to go off subject then back on to get an interview to work.

            “Nice looking kid,” she said.

            “It’s coming back to you.”

            “I’ve seen him around.  Lucy’s.  The coffee shop.  Nice.  Polite.  Quiet.”

            She paused.  I urged her on.

            “The kind, I think, who has a hard time saying no.”

            Interesting, but no address, no girl friend name.  Another dead end.

            Really, Bobo was a dead end too.  Except for her big flirting smile, I didn’t expect Bobo to come up with anything interesting.  I know I said to leave no stone unturned but that doesn’t mean I can’t have an opinion or just for fun, try to figure the odds.

            “Well, is he the kind of guy who might turn you on?” I asked Charlyn.

            “John!”

            I just wanted to know if she liked the younger guys.

            “You know as soon as I ditch my present boyfriend… I’m going to call you.”

            “Look at the picture again.”

            “He’s cute,” she said.

            She lingered with the picture.  Charlyn was a tiny Chinese girl with not much of a figure except that she had this tiny waist and a cute little tush and dimples when she smiled.

            “No… nothing. If I think of anything, I’ll tell you at Lucy’s.”

            Lucy’s after sundown was a pretty common thing for a bunch of us in South Kihei.  I was never part of the in crowd, but somehow a little group was forming around Lucy’s.  

            Who doesn’t like ice cream?  That’s as good a reason to visit an ice cream shop as it was to visit Mardy at Arnold’s Ice Cream on the ground floor of Kama‘ole Shopping Center.  Arnold’s, of course, was named after the Happy Days television show hangout but the owner figured that Arnold’s was not a copyrightable name, unlike Cheeseburger in Paradise in Lahaina which ran into problems with New York lawyers.  Arnold’s has an autographed picture of the Fonz just behind the cash register.

            Mardy is native Hawaiian and should be on my short list of women I should do more with than just flirt.  She is about five seven, a hundred fifty, typical wide Hawaiian nose, huge dark eyes, slightly kinky, long curly hair, no distinguishing marks, a scar on her knee actually, mid 30’s, dark complexion.  She dances hula in Lahaina but lives and works in Kihei.  A lot of Maui people make that 60 miles commute.  It would drive me crazy.  I liked to do it on a Friday afternoon every once in awhile, but not regularly.

Mardy looked at the picture and made about five faces in 15 seconds.  I’ve always thought of her as pleasingly plump.  Actually, she’s more muscular than plump.

            “Well, I’ve seen him. I don’t know if I’ve ever talked to him. Why do you want to get information about him? Did he do something bad”

            I looked at her like she was insane.

            “Mardy. You know I only deal with good guys.  Never the bad guys.”

            “Well, you are a PI.  What do PI’s do?  They catch bad guys.  So, don’t you have to ask questions about bad guys?”

            “Hmmm.”

            “So, good guy or bad guy?”

            “Good question.”

            I took the picture back.  Good question.  For the first time, it occurred to me that if the Buddha head were real, Andy might be a bad guy.  And that might mean not a runaway but missing.  Missing, or as we say in the business, murdered.  Sometimes, it’s nearly the same.  But I dismissed it.  Bad guys aren’t named Andy.

            Tim saw me coming out of Arnold’s and whistled to get my attention.  I was going there anyway.  Tim is one of the sharpest guys on the strip.  He is studying for his Realtor’s license which would let him sell time shares instead of shill for them.  Perhaps, hawk is a better word.  Some say time share is a noble profession.  If you’re the licensed Realtor selling it, it’s a lot of money.  But Tim might have ADD, Attention Deficit Disorder or something, that makes book learning and therefore a license difficult.  He’s been on the strip for about five years, and he still doesn’t have the license.  He’s sharp.  He makes $100 for every person that he gets to go to a time share presentation.  His weapons are freebies, discounts, island knowledge, and the famous Halverly smile.  The smile is everything, Tim likes to say.  He flashed one of them at me.  I have often wondered what it might be like to be in love with say, Julia Roberts.  How would you know if she was faking it or acting?  Tim’s smile was the same way.  But I felt that for me, it was real.

            “Man, so how’s the girl?!” Tim said.

            I was befuddled for a moment.

            “Gus’ girl for you?” Tim said.

             “Gus has a girl for me?”

            “Yeah.” Tim frowned. “Didn’t he tell you?”

            Ahhh, the girl.  The one I traded away my piece of mind for.  The girl in exchange for taking the Whitcomb caper.

            “Uhh, yeah, I forgot.”

            “A looker, but nice you know.  A looker but no fancy pants, no make up, the kind you see in a movie and think ‘where do they find women like that?’  Matches perfectly, you know.  You’re going to be happy.”

            “If she’s so good, why don’t you try for her yourself?”

            “Well,” Tim said.  He looked away conspiratorially.  “Gus said he had a deal with you.”

            “When did you see her?”

            “Three days ago.”

            Bastard Gus.  Excuse me.  I couldn’t help it.

            “So you knew all this time, why didn’t you tell me earlier? You just saw me yesterday.”

            “I’ve been waiting, man.  Just wanting to see your reaction.”

            This is what bonds men together.  Seeing how we do in The Relationship.  Actually, though I’ve been married before, I guess I have to admit I don’t do well in The Relationship.  I won’t stand for a lot that seem to be common human traits, and being wishy washy, up and down or obtuse are common womanly traits that I find difficult.  But it all starts with pretty.

            “Well, I haven’t met her yet.”

             “Bug him man. You’ll be glad you did,” Tim said, as he flashed one of his professional smiles at two girls walking by.  He leaned down against his little counter in his booth that offered $30 helicopter rides, $10 lū‘aus, free weather and lots of aloha.

            “Ladies…”

            There was an air of expectancy he projected.

            They smiled and continued walking on by.

            “Wait…”

            One turned and smiled, and the other kept on walking.

            “Excuse me!” Tim said in a half begging, half joking voice.

            The second woman stopped.

            “There must be something here I can help you with,” Tim said, pointing to his sign.

            They laughed.

            I had seen him do it a hundred times. I was still impressed.  He said the company had a policy, a rule of thumb.  Don’t settle for less than eight rejections.  If the customer says, “No, absolutely not interested,” you’re supposed to say, “No, it couldn’t be.”  You drag out the “no” and try to approximate a plaintive, disbelieving tone of voice.  They say, “No, no, no,” you’re supposed to say, “Yes, yes, yes…”  You copy the same rhythm and vocal pattern.  The same pitch, if you can manage it.  They say, “I’m going to call the cops.”  You say, “Cops?  Cops?  So… what would the cops do where you’re from.  Say, where are you from?”  That’s three rejections.  If you can do it, it’s great acting.  You have five more to go before you can let go.  The company shops the OPC’s, the outside personal contact sales force, to make sure they’re living up to the rule of thumb.  But it was the $100 and the fun of it that motivated Tim.

            I had three hours on the job, $150, and I had learned so far that Andy was pretty inconsequential, no one remembered him clearly, not even Tim, his boss didn’t have much to say about him, well nothing consequential, no one knew if he had a girl friend, and he didn’t suddenly vanish off the face of the earth in the middle of a cigarette.  In fact, he probably didn’t smoke.

            I called it a day. Went home, had lunch, a salad and a tuna sandwich, took my nap, read a bit, stood sunset watch at Kama‘ole and went to Lucy’s.

            “Do you remember the kid,” I told Gus.

            I was having the first of my two beers.  I find if you drink less, you can appreciate the effects more.  I liked that little tingling, that slight relaxation that comes with the first beer.  The second beer makes it better but the third you’re chasing, and it’s never that good as the first one, except you’re laughing more.

            “Naw, I usually don’t pay attention to young guys. Now girls, I do, but the guys blur in my short term memory,” Gus said.

            I told him about my day, about the Buddha head, Desdemoine, my canvassing the strip. He was immediately interested in the head.

            “You really should look into that, maybe call the Bishop Museum.”

            “They do Hawaiiana, not Asian antiquities.”

            “The Academy of Arts?”

            “So, you think it might be important?”

            “If it’s real.”

            Fat chance, I thought.

             “So, about this girl you owe me,” I said.

            Gus held up his hand.

            “I told you.  I promised you.  But she doesn’t come easy.”

            What the hell does that mean?

            “I got to set something up.”

            After the little thing with Tim, I was a little impatient.

            “Maybe,” Gus said, “we look at her over a distance, then she comes up and I talk to her and she gets a look at you, and later if you both still like we could have lunch.”

            “I thought you said it was all set up.”

            “I never said such a thing.”

            “Well, you implied it.”

            “John, that’s the problem with you.  You think everything’s implied.  You read too much between the lines.  You gotta learn to just read the black print.”

            He set me back.  I went into my thinker pose, left elbow on right hand, chin on the back of left palm heel, lips mashed against my fingers.

            “Yeah, well all the secrets are between the lines,” I said.  “Just tell me about her.”

Gus smiled almost as convincingly as Tim.

            “You gotta see this girl. Plain, but classy, you know what I mean.  Dresses simply, but it’s understandable, she works with dirt.  Has an air about her, you know, warmth and yet worldliness.  Not afraid.  Not distant.  Not loud.  Probably five pounds above her high school weight.”

            We had a running joke about high school weight.  My premise is that women gain a pound a year after a high school.  Men do too unless they swill beer.  Then it could go a lot higher.  For women, it’s sugar not beer.  I saw an article recently that said that if you’re thirty pounds over your high school weight, you’re significantly at risk for a heart attack.  I was just below that mark.

            “What’s with the dirt?” I said.

            “You’re going to love this.  She makes her living baby sitting plants.”

            Gus opened his hands.  Ta dah.  There.  I told you.  Huh?  Huh?

            “She what?”

            “She’s got a way with plants.  And with rich people.  They like her.  They trust her.  I think she has some blueblood credentials that she don’t let on to us regular folks.   Works by reference only.  Started, I hear, in Wailea about four years ago.  One thing led to another.  You know that scenario.”

            I knew.  I wanted that scenario for myself.  Just one job a month.  The best.  Cherry picking PI.

            “So what does she do,” I said.

            “She goes in when you’re on vacation and she waters and prunes and whatever to their plants.  You know, for some richies, plants are like dogs to us.  Plus, she’s got a line now of homes that the owners only reside maybe a month a year.  She’s there the rest of the time.”

            “What about gardeners. Don’t these rich people have gardeners?”

            “Gardeners are for outside.  She does inside.  Plus, she oversees the gardeners.  I guess indoor plants are harder.”

             “You gotta be kidding.”

            “Drives a pickup.  Lives up country. You rarely see her ‘cause she’s usually at work.”

            Well, that part I didn’t like.  I liked self sufficient.  I liked different and interesting.  I liked the ability to enjoy and fit in the rich scene.  I liked the dichotomy of the pick up truck and the mansion.  I liked Tim’s taste in pretty, and Tim said she was pretty.  I could have been in love already.  But I didn’t like too busy.

            “OK, so set something up.”

            “I will, I will.”

            “Tomorrow.”

            Lucy’s is an extravaganza of a bar.  It was built by the imagination of, you’d think, a real eccentric.  But instead, it was two guys who are becoming very rich on Maui developing land.  They are really problem solvers.  The problem with Kihei is that all the beach front has been saved with parks.  So, you can only get commercial property across the street from the beach.  So, eureka, these two guys build a very tall, two-story building.  I think the top of Lucy’s is 40 feet high, at least.  And the view is above the kiawe trees, above the ratty back door to Puna’s Bar in front of us and over the azure of Ma‘alaea Bay toward the sunset over Lanai.  There is an elevator or a grand staircase and a polished brass fire pole for quick departures, but the bartender has to certify that you are sober enough to use the firepole, and regulars constantly gossip that the owner is going to close the flagpole.  Frankly, I think he should.

             “But first, business,” Gus said.  “Mr. Whitcomb is very nervous. I know you can appreciate this.”

            OK, here we go, the Paul Evans thing.  I told Gus about my morning.  Dead ends.  I told him I thought the kid ran away from home.  I really should be interviewing the parents again to see if anything had happened family wise that caused the kid’s disappearance.  Like, what was this family business thing?  Maybe they were pressuring the kid to come home and take over the business and he fled.

            “Whitcomb is into warehouses and strip malls,” Gus said.  “He’s a commercial slum lord. Started in his backyard in the country and found a niche for his personality.”

            Made sense to me.

            “Old man thinks there’s foul play because no one will talk to him. Thinks it’s a conspiracy.”

            I could explain that.  I gave Gus a clearly disgusted look.

            “I don’t think he’ll buy running away from home.”

            “OK,” I said.  I was thinking on my feet.  I knew Gus was angling to do some research.  “But it’ll cost. I won’t take it out of my…”

            And just then, Mrs. Whitcomb entered Lucy’s standing against the black of night at the entrance. Lucy’s is basically open air and has a huge open entrance on the leeward side of the building. She was wearing something gauzy that was translucent with the floodlights behind her.

            “How’d…”

            Gus held up his hand.

            “She’s the client. She has a right.”

            I thought I said no interference.

            “Mr. Makā… kiu.”

            “Very good,” I said, despite myself.  I do a lot of things despite myself.  She was smiling and pretty and innocent.  I really didn’t know what to say.  Want a drink?  What can I do for you?  Why are you here?  Is this going to be my nightmare?

            “I’m so glad we have this chance to talk.”

            I looked around.  Charlyn walked in the door.  Haole guys dig Asian chicks like local guys love blondes.  A lot of heads turned as she walked in.  She frowned when she saw me with Mrs. Whitcomb but I gestured for her to come over.  I could see she was a little reluctant.  Gus hugged her.

            “Charlyn, my sweet, this is my client Mrs. Angela Whitcomb.”

            I wanted to get in that client early so Charlyn would have no doubts.  Her face changed instantly.

            “Why how nice to meet you,” Charlyn said.

            Mrs. Whitcomb smiled demurely.

            I leaned over and whispered to Charlyn that we were talking business and that I would join her in five minutes, max.  But she leaned over and whispered that she remembered something about Andy.  I held up my finger against my mouth so she wouldn’t blurt it out.  I’m like an auto mechanic.  I should put on a sign on my forehead “No customers allowed beyond this point.” I excused us.

            “I remember now,” Charlyn said.  “I saw him once. He works at the Kiawe, you know.  I saw him once with the owner, Peter.”

            Oh?

            “Yeah, they were arguing.  He even pushed the kid around.  He actually hit him.  I almost thought of calling the police, but it didn’t last long and the kid walked away.  Mostly, I remember it confirmed everything I’ve thought about that Frenchman.”

            “Rough around the edges, huh?”

            “More than rough.”

            “What would you say?”

            “I would say vicious.”

            Interesting.  First, I’m thinking easy job, 800 smackaroos, runaway from overbearing parents, obvious.  Now, there’s vicious and a disturbing Buddha head.  I asked Charlyn to wait on the other side of the bar.  And when I went back, I told Angela that my business with Charlyn was personal.

            “She wants my body,” I said.

            Mrs. Whitcomb laughed.  I should have taken offense, but I had said it as a joke and it had come across that way.  But why wouldn’t someone like Charlyn like my 56 year old body?

            “Did you walk the strip today?” she asked.

            “I did.”

            “What did you find out?”

            “Actually, nothing.”

            She was surprised.

            “Look, I told you you’d get a report.”

            I know it sounded hard but it didn’t seem to faze her.  I suppose living with Paul Evans for twenty or more years would do that to a sweetie pie.

             “I know, but I thought maybe if you understood Paul a bit you’d have better luck.”

            “No offense, but I think I have a good picture.”

            “You know he means well. People mistake him.”

            Sure.

            “Several times I saw people glance at the photo twice,” she said.  “I know they’d seen Andrew.”

            I nodded. How do you mime “sure.”

            “I think his boss was lying,” Mrs. Whitcomb said.

            Ah, what was she thinking about this… this vicious man?

            “I thought it seemed he might have hated Andrew.  Maybe enough to harm him.”

            “That’s going far for just meeting a man.”

            “Well, a woman has feelings about this sort of thing.”

            I know.  At least, they think so.

            “I think we should check him out more.”

            This was the clincher.  I knew sooner or later I would have to do it.  Why not sooner.  If Charlyn hadn’t walked in right then, I might have held out longer.  I turned toward Gus, and he leaned in closer.

            “Like I said, I have nothing now, but there are… suspicions.”

            She looked surprised.  I smiled.  She leaned in closer.

            “It’s a long shot.”

            She touched my arm.

            “It will cost to get more facts.”

            I hate to sound like a con man constantly milking the mark.  In fact, I rarely get into this cost thing, I prefer clients giving me carte blanche.  My standard rate is $1,000 down, non-refundable, plus all expenses, no questions asked, and $50 a hour after that.  But, truthfully, I was nervous from the git go about facing Paul Evans regarding money.  And I didn’t want to lose anymore money to this case.  Already, Gus was making 20 percent, twice his usual.  I wanted anything else we did with Desdemoine on top of the minimum.

            “I may need outside help,” I said.  I looked at Gus.  “This would be expenses on top of the retainer. Probably, oh…”

            “Oh, maybe a couple hundred,” Gus said.

            Mrs. Whitcomb looked at Gus.  There was not a trace of suspicion in her eyes.

            “Of course.  You mustn’t doubt our resolve,” she said.

            “Of course, we would keep it to a minimum,” Gus said.  Bless his heart.  He was right on it.

            Of course, I didn’t doubt her resolve.  But money is another thing.  The only way to get quick information, and Gus knew it, was illegally.  And illegal costs.  This was always frustrating as an officer of the law.  We needed to wait for court orders, for captains and majors to get back from seminars, for attorneys to finish polishing their shoes, while criminals disposed of precious evidence.  If I had been Nixon, there never would have been tapes.  Zero.  Nada.  I would have denied everything.  So what if Deep Throat said there were tapes.  It’s one man’s word against another.  No tapes, no final case.  How many people could have known about the tapes?  Why erase some tapes and not the whole thing.  Absolutely stupid.  There was part of me that loved to go in and fish out illegal evidence.  And another part was torn.

            Mrs. Whitcomb touched my sleeve.  “I have every faith in you she said.  In Kentucky, we have a saying.  We say, ‘The country boys can tell.’  We mean the girls too. I can feel it from this mountain, all along this beach. I can feel it in you.  Country can tell.”

            I thought of the hulking shoulder of Haleakala behind us.  She immediately interested me more.  There was something about the mountain.  And the sea here.  It was country.

            “Would you like another thousand in advance?”

            I shook my head.

            “We’ll settle up later when I do my report.”