Hawaii Blogs:

December 07 January 08

Walking in Waikiki

With Cloudia Charters, "Does This T-Shirt Make Me Look Malahini?" 12.13.07

       Leaving home I wonder: "Is my 'local-ness' evident in this New York City t-shirt?" maybe I should change into my ratty 'University of Hawaii' one from undergrad times?   Not that there's anything wrong with being a visitor, y'all are the WHOLE point of the daily festival that IS Waikiki! I do think that my "Honolulu Chinatown Lion Dancing" shirt became my absolute favorite one Chinese New Year season while I was watching some local kids performing my second favorite dance (after Hula).  

            "Is one of the kids yours?" a woman asked me.  I've also been asked – by visitors - if I'm Hawaiian.  What a wonderful compliment!  My love of this place is as clear to them as.  .  .   a slogan on a t-shirt.  "No, I'm a malahini myself, only been here 21 years" I tell local folks. And when those that know me say: "Naw. You local already!" well, that's one of the greatest compliments you can receive: to be accepted as family, ohana.   That speaks for itself anywhere in the world, but especially in Polynesia where it's the cornerstone of everything- and not just at holiday time.  .  . 

            A handful of years ago I facilitated after-school peer meetings for special kids at two local High Schools.   No, not special like that, these were attractive, smart kids who had issues in school because of circumstances beyond their control – kids who just needed a place to open up, to share, to feel safe, and to grow. I mostly just showed up (with food local style!) listened, cared, showed up, and listened.  

            At age 14 they were problem kids barely hanging on in school.  By graduation (and yes, they beat the odds, stayed in school and graduated – most of them) they were tall young adults with some confidence. Wow! Knowing them has been one of the great things in my life.

            The other day at the plate lunch place I didn't recognize my friend Ho`o (from group) at first. So grown up! And so happy to see me!  That hug and clear smiling face will warm me into the new year for sure.  Just think for a moment of the Ho`os in YOUR life.  People you think of but rarely, who've not forgotten something YOU shared.  Those folks are among the truly important investments in life.  

            For what is quality of life really?  It's other people, yes, just like hell can be.  What are you investing in?   If you want to learn something about modern culture, why just walk around in public smiling! Notice how folks look at you. Even as most of us are starved for smiles and sincerity, we've learned to suspect that smiling stranger. They usually do have something to sell!  But if quality-of-life consists mostly of how we view, think about, and interact with others, then perhaps the Hawaiians of old had it just right: Aloha is not a soft concept, but rather a very smart investment!   A few days ago there was a letter-to-the-editor of the Honolulu Advertiser that I snipped out of the paper titled: "Sharing of Aloha Makes Visits Nicer."

       "It's time to leave again. Thank you, Hawaii. Thank you for your aloha. In this world where people pass each other without a glance, you acknowledged others. Whether we were walking, riding the TheBus or enjoying the music in a lounge, you smiled, spoke, offered directions, talked story or shared a song. Mahalo. Your aloha will help make this world a better place. (signed) Lanny and Phyllis Younger, New Lenox, IL"   Nuff said.  .  . 

            'You can't always get what you want,' someone said (or sang) and ain't it the truth. But once in a while (even a stopped clock is right sometimes ;-) the stars align and magic happens.   Being "realistic" takes on a whole new meaning for Hawaii folk now that Colt and the undefeated Warriors will be playing in the Sugar Bowl (appropriate for our just-barely-post- plantation culture).

 Photo credit jdoliente at Flickr.com

           At that last Saturday night game, down 21 points in the opening minutes, we started to armor our emotions, being 'realistic.'   "They just kids," we reminded each other, "and they did GREAT this season. Nothing in life is perfect." How practiced we are at being disappointed.  Many left the TV room, unable to watch. 

            But by now you know: real champions find their groove. The rain stayed away and it all came down to an all-but-tied score with seconds to go. Kicker Kelly, the previous game's hero, had an injured foot and had missed two attempts. It looked as if the visiting Huskies were completing a winning touchdown pass to beat the clock when our UH defense (remember them?) made the miraculous interception that sealed this Season of Champions into all our hearts (and local history too).

            Quarterback Colt, could only watch. And then it was true, a fact: Undefeated, #10 in the country, and going to the big bowl game! This is much more than a game to Hawaii. This is the proud underdog thrill of our little place at the margins, of our Polynesian and "Local" kids who grew up without any familiar faces or cultural cues in the movies and on TV.

            Slowly that's changing. "It's all of us, the whole team, that matters; not just me." Said Colt Brennan winging off to the Heisman ceremony. That's his Hawaii. That's real Polynesian Power. The NFL is noticing, and High School teams in Texas are performing the (Maori) Hakka warrior ceremony before each game, as the Warriors do – look for it in the bowl.   .  . 

            What IS THAT THING!! The other morning the town woke up to find a weird monster looming over the Aloha Tower. The navy's Sea Launch Odyssey (it launches satellites) showed up before dawn and left at dinnertime, looking like the space ship from a 1950's drive-in show. We often get to see strange and wonderful sights off shore of O`ahu: the USS Missouri completing her final voyage to Pearl Harbor, or the voyaging canoe Hokule`a setting off to retrace the oceanic travels of those who came here first (that's REAL Polynesian Pride!).   .  . 

            December 7^th was marked by a dwindling number of Pearl Harbor attack survivors and also by the inauguration of a new USS Oklahoma memorial. Often the survivors of that day make their final journey (cremated) to rejoin their shipmates beneath the waves.

            If this makes you feel like waving a flag (or wearing flag-themed clothes, or putting your Euros in a flag wallet, or writing with a flag pencil) head on down to Flags Flying at Ward Warehouse. Mary has flags from every country and more! Flags are part of the boating life style, and we get ours from Mary. We like to shop local, but she also takes back battered flags and sees them properly cremated by the boy scouts or in military ceremony. Classy.   Patriotic pride, like Pacific Pride, is more than a slogan on a t-shirt. I know that Ho`o will agree next time we meet up.  .   .  Just walking in Waikiki.  .  .  ALOHA!

Walking in Waikiki

With Cloudia Charters, "A Perfect Day" 12.8.07

       V isitors strolling Waikiki last Friday morning were visibly curious about rather un-ordinary events at the triangle park just where Kuhio Avenue begins. Masons stood honor guard in their feathered hats, capes, swords and medallia.   Dignitaries hob-nobbed in their VIP seats while Royal Society members, their Hawaiian faces older, yet even more beautiful year to year, sat in their archaic black finery, still faithful at their unique intersection of history and heart.

            They were all there to commemorate the 175th birthday of David Kalakaua, Hawaii's last king.  Trotting through Fort DeRussy, late as usual, I could hear the Royal Hawaiian Band and felt what I imagined was the special excitement of hurrying to a royal occasion. As I reached the ceremony, noted historian and musician Palani Vaughn was singing one of his own monarchy-themed compositions with the band.

            As the birds chirped along, a glorified traffic-island (albeit with a stately statue of the sovereign) became truly a timeless piece of sovereign Hawaiian soil. "He's still our King…in our hearts." One lady told me.   A humane dignity, local style, prevailed; equal parts pride and humility. Chatting with me as the band stood down Maestro Nakasone explained that it was Kamehameha III who chartered "our" band.   Good for Kam III! For it seemed that Kalakaua had the most formidable wealth of "firsts" and foundings under his kingly belt. 

            According to the Councils General, city officials and other grand Pooh-Bahs, these included the first Honolulu power plant, the fire department, and the initial invitation of Japanese subjects to live and work in the Kingdom of Hawaii.   As we all sang "Hawaii Aloha" a Royal Society gentleman shared a brief smile with me. When the band concluded he walked over, shared one of his lei also, and accepted a kiss. That's my Hawaii – even here in bustling Waikiki.  

            The sweetness of life in Hawaii is definitely still around if you care to believe in it. Even busy Palani Vaughn made time to talk story afterwards with a stranger about the magical night of Kalakaua's birth, and about the powerful Heiau (temple) of Mana Mana at the foot of sacred Puowaina (Punchbowl) where Queen's Hospital stands today.   But it was not all serious; Palani told me with a wink that the famous Iolani Palace telephone system probably served mostly to warn the king and his fellow card players (including Robert Louis Stevenson) that the queen was coming to break up the party.

            "One prophesy marked Kalakaua's life and reign." Palani told me. "Shortly before his birth, it was prophesied that the ancient Hawaiian bones would live again."   Just think how close the world came to losing Hula, to losing Hawaiian culture and language forever.  Then say a silent "Happy Birthday" to the man who championed and defended these treasures that spread widening joy around the world today: the "Merrie Monarch" Kawika ("David") Kalakaua, the king who fulfilled a prophecy.   .  . 

            A short walk away, at the Hawaii Convention Center, the very first annual International Waikiki Hula Conference was underway.  Hula dancers, their fans and supporters from all over the globe had gathered to learn from among the most honored and acknowledged Kumu Hula in Hawaii Nei.   When I spotted living treasure Uncle George Na`ope signing autographs I knew that this was the place for the REAL stuff. 

            Uncle George is one of the seminal figures in Hula and a guiding force behind Hula's annual "Olympics" the Merrie Monarch Festival in Hilo every spring. His kolohe (mischievous) dancing before the exhausted and emotional festival crowd as the judges tabulate three days of competition is a highpoint of da year for many.   Just seeing him walk down Ali'i Drive (wearing more Hawaiian bracelets than me) when I lived in Kona made any day special.

            The list of conference participants, workshops and presentations mark this event a do-not-miss for serious students of Hula (you know who you are).   The Waikiki Improvement Association sure came up with an "only in Hawaii" event that should run for years to come (and just at a quiet time for hotels too, clever "win-win").   .  . 

            What a day! I needed the hard stuff: Kimchee - and only the authentic stuff could help me.  Fortunately Palama Supermarket is just off Kalakaua on nearby Makaloa Street.   Here among the (to me) incomprehensible groceries and kitchenwares can be found authentic Korean food ready-to-eat at a price anyone can appreciate!   Soups, stews, beef, chicken and bi bim bap, all with a side of macaroni salad, perfect rice, and of course Korean penicillin: kimchee!   I suggest you enjoy some for your health despite what your non-Korean ohana might say about your fragrance.   .  . 

            Saturday marks the beginning of Honolulu City Lights with the lighting of the civic Christmas tree and the kick-off electric parade. Heck, we all know that Mayor Mufi is going sing. Flashing garbage trucks and meter maid three-wheelers tricked out to be Santa's reindeer just might bring a tear to your eye when no one's looking.   See you there? 

            Or will you be at that OTHER Saturday kick-off?  You may have heard that we have a college football team.   Local alums and sports fans have been floating on air for weeks now as Colt, Davone and the guys just keep winning. And good games too (just ask the ESPN2 crew). "Undefeated" sounds nice doesn't it?   Hawaii remains a small place despite all appearances, and for our UH Warriors to shine like they are just uplifts EVERYONE! Christmas dreams of bowl games dance in our heads.  .  .  dance hula that is, in this place that we love, where you can attend a king's party, enjoy authentic world-class culture, or eat down-home kau kau on-the-hoof.  .  .  when you're hoofing in Waikiki.   .  .  Aloha!

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