News from Waikiki

Aloha

Hawaii Blogs:

April May 08

Walking in Waikiki With Cloudia Charters "Does Not Look a Day over 99!" May 26, 2008

Behold a rich estuary, teeming with life, where pearls (momi) might be found. Demi-god shark guardians patrolled there, a beautiful goddess presided, and sources of food were rich.

Known today as Pearl Harbor this place has played a key role in history more than once: the history of Hawaii, of the USA, and of the world. Suddenly desirable to the US Navy as a coaling station at the outbreak of the Spanish American War, US rights to the harbor were granted in a deal that opened US markets to Hawaii's "King" sugar.

Treaty papers were signed 100 years ago on May 13^th1908. The rest, as "they" say is history. Ultimately congress regarded PH as indispensable, spurring annexation that turned the Republic of Hawaii into a US territory.

For many of our visitors PH is a "must see." Some are people of a certain age who remember where they were when the world changed in December of 1941. A surprising number of visitors from Japan pay their respects. They all want to visit Hawaii's "ground zero" the Arizona Memorial, built in the sixties partly with money raised by Elvis. It is a national shrine, and the sunken battleship beneath is tomb to the young sailors who never left her.

Every year they are re-joined by (the ashes of) their comrades who survived the attack, and every year there are fewer of those. They wished to rejoin their shipmates; the families and the US PARK SERVICE respectfully comply.

A few years back, some PH veterans met with a visiting group of Japanese veterans of the attack. Tears were shed on both sides, stories shared, friendships launched. Their message to us as they stood arm in arm? "Work for peace." Many locals have aunties, uncles, parents, or neighbors who worked at PH over the years. Some of these folks rebuilt the Pacific fleet in record time, even as the cleanup of bodies and debris continued around them.

Today, many new ships and submarines are on their way to this historic homeport. That's our Pearl Harbor: from pearls, to coal, to nuclear: eternal vigilance guarding our paradise. You may not realize that the outbreak of WWII had a special import for certain of our fellow Hawaii citizens.

Men like Hawaii Kai resident Frank Tanabe whose education at the University of Washington was abruptly ended in his senior year by an internment order. Like virtually all local Nisei he was a patriotic guy who felt shame under the circumstances. Most of them, like Frank, joined the US Army and fought with exceptional valor, even as their families remained in the camps. (See page 25 of my Hawaii novel, 'Aloha Where You Like Go' for more about the 'Go For Broke' boys)

"You fought two enemies," President Harry Truman told them, "the nazis and prejudice. And you won." Hawaii people are lucky to live among these aging heroes. Well this month Frank finally received his degree. You see we Hawaii people are surrounded every day by the echoes and effects of history. . .

Walking along Waikiki Beach at sunset I stopped to look for the 'green flash' (when the last blip of the sun drops below the sea's horizon line). Surprise! The sun sets behind the Waianae Mountains this time of year. Don't be shocked, but I think that Earth is. . . spinning! Auwe, I'm getting dizzy thinking about it. . .

Kolea where are you? Our kolea (golden plover) have seemingly fattened themselves sufficiently on local grub (local grubs?) to make the epic flight to their summer range in Alaska. We'll look for them again, thin and hungry, in a few months.

Sound familiar, parents? Fire Knife! The Midwest has cow chip tossing, Canadians skirl, and the Afghanis play that horseback polo game with a sheep's head, but Polynesians have Fire Knife Dancing! This year's champ of the 16^th Annual World Fireknife Dance Championships was a teen from. . . Florida!? What, you were expecting New Jersey? (Actually certain noteworthy player(s) of Hawaiian Slack Key are transplants from N J. But I'm not naming any names in this column ;-). . .

Stopped to talk to the information booth folks at Ala Moana Shopping Center. That place is always changing; I couldn't find a store I wanted. "No be shame," they told me, "even locals can get turned around here. We know directions from this booth; but when we're walking around the mall WE GET LOST TOO." I feel better, don't you?

Mabuhay! Sure enjoyed the Filipino Fiesta and Parade on Saturday! Living in Hawaii is an education in multi-culturalism of the best kind. Friends and co-workers from the Philippines have enriched our islands with their food, culture, and friendship; and to them I send a warm Salamat! . . .

Now a word about VOG, the airborne emanations from the Volcano: Relax! There are areas of the "Big Island" (Hawaii) where the vog seems to be pooling right now. But our Waikiki is usually blessed with faithful Trade Winds freshened by thousands of miles of Open Ocean. The best air on earth!

The health department has not detected dangerous levels of ANYTHING on Oahu, even "particulates" (whatever they are). You are breathing better air in Honolulu, even when a touch of vog visits, than you would in virtually any other city anywhere! When we do see it here for a couple of days vog looks kind of strange and beautiful wreathing the mountains and making the day's light interesting.

Vog is a natural part of our Hawaii and has been, off and on, since the birth of these islands. Folks with breathing problems might not want to run a marathon on a voggy day, but life here remains very beautiful – and healthy! Don't let the vog monster scare you away from paradise! Check out <volcanoupdate.com> to see just what's going on . . .

Clothes are less important in Hawaii. When I see a coordinated outfit that is "just so" I always think "visitor." We expect that a neighbor wearing a tie is going to court; even local funerals are mostly "Aloha Wear." Don't get me wrong. We do wear clothes, even stylish ones sometimes.

But here, one's manner and grooming are the real status symbols that we notice, more than designer labels. That guy in the loud aloha shirt might just be a Supreme Court Justice on holiday, or a famous celebrity sweaty from the beach. Ladies, here you can simply wrap yourself in a Pareau and go outside with minimal make-up. (It just melts anyway!)

In Hawaii each person's inner beauty provides a certain glow. That's why I like to say that everyone is beautiful here. Yes, that old Aloha magic still charges the atmosphere, revealing every local as our cousin, every visitor our guest, and every child a gift. If you don't believe it, just join me any time. . . Walking in Waikiki. . . ALOHA!

Be sure to check out Cloudia's Hawaii novel: "Aloha Where You Like Go?" at Amazon.com, local bookstores, or the Hawaii State Library. One reviewer called it "More informative than a guidebook, more personal than a diary!" You may reach her at cloudia.charters@gmail.com

Walking in Waikiki,With Cloudia W. Charters, Woman Warriors, Queens & Mangos, May 8, 08

Last Saturday I was downtown WAY too early for the 2^nd Annual "Distinctive Women in Hawaii History" program presented by the Bishop Museum. My dumb luck was wide awake, however, as I struck up a convo with the woman next to me to discover that she was Nanette Napoleon, "Hawaii's History Detective," one of the day's presenters! Nanette's second-Saturday walking tours of our historic Honolulu Capitol District (check with the Mission Houses Museum) are legendary.

And speaking of legendary, what a day of remarkable stories! Spellbinding, impeccably researched stories of real local women who wove indelible beauty and meaning into the fabric of our special place. I enjoyed hearing about Warrior women who were excellent shots with the rifles that Kamehameha had purchased from the British, and who proved crucial in the Battle of Nu`uanu Pali near that famous cliff's edge. You see, we walk (and drive) on a powerful `Aina where history and legend are always very close to us. . . for those who care to remember.

The most engaging presentation by far was Kealoha Kelekolio's Traditional Hawaiian Storytelling version of Princess Ruth Ke`elikolani's royal visit (circa early 1880s) to erupting Kilauea. Hilo town was in peril as madam Pele, the volcano deity, and great grandmother to Big Island Hawaiians, seemed determined to overtake it. At the request of her people, the granddaughter of Kamehameha (originally of the Big Island Hawaii) did indeed sail from Honolulu to face the living flow. "Surely Pele would respect the mana of the sacred alii," believed the local Hawaiians. "What a blasphemous load of %&$@#!" said most of the non-Hawaiians.

Kealoha gently tossed red silk handkerchiefs that drifted down before projected film of glowing flowing lava, where they sparkled in the light, dazzling the child in every scholar just like his words, gestures and enthusiasm were doing! We know that the lava stopped mere feet from where the Princess offered those red silk handkerchiefs (and bottles of gin;-) and where she slept exhausted for the night. "Tell it again uncle!" The mature audience erupted in applause spiced with hoots, whistles, and "Hana Hou" (one mo time!) before all of us grown-ups managed to reassert our very adult comportment. . .

The whole day was cool like that, with attendees enjoying a traditional lunch al fresco from Helena's Hawaiian Food on North School Street. Chef Helen Kwock Chock passed on last year, but her family maintains the recipes at her wonderful little 'hole in the wall' restaurant that was a favorite of gourmand James Beard. He ate there at every opportunity, presenting Helen with a respected "Beard Award," and inviting the unassuming grandma to New York City to prepare a meal for the world's great foodies. Nuff said? Eat at Helena's! And what's with the lines of hungry people in front of chain restaurants here in Waikiki? You can eat that stuff back home, or anywhere! Why not try wonderful food with warm service at my favorite Bombay Indian Restaurant (Ala Moana by Hobron Lane)? Besides Helena's there are so many other little culinary gems in our town, like the singular shrimp tempura at Hifumi (off Beretania on College Walk).

After a recent concert, blues man Taj Mahal eschewed fine dining for the comfort food at tiny Liliha Bakery Coffee Shop (Kuakini off Liliha street-open all night). . . Eat somewhere local and unique, you! Like Seinfeld's George, I've always wanted to pretend to be an architect. I had a wonderful opportunity to do just that as I strolled along on a downtown architectural walking tour offered by the Honolulu Chapter, American Institute of Architects. Who knew that our city hall, Honolulu Hale, is a sort of Italian castle? Check out the fortified elements in this beloved Douglas Fairbanks of a building the next time you're there. We walk by historical riches every day here in Honolulu town, though the surpassing beauty of green mountain, eloquent sky & seas oft upstages them. And don't forget US! Everyone is beautiful here. Just look around.

The US Census reports that Hawaii leads in ethnic diversity, with "minorities" around 75% of our human treasure. "Minorities," what does that even mean when there is no overwhelming "majority?" Whatever you call us- it (mostly) works. . .

Imagine having a president who grew up in such a place. . . Were those night marchers a while back in Kaneohe? Even today, distant drumbeats and chanting are sometimes heard in certain districts after midnight. The chiefs of old still inspecting "their" lands. But no, this time it was modern warriors, OUR folks, Kaneohe Marines training in the dark before going into a war zone. Out of respect for the public, cadences were not called so quiet was maintained. Nonetheless, many local residents paid their respects from front yards, and were frankly awed by the Mana surrounding these citizen soldiers. However you may feel about this war, or that police action, we all admire and appreciate those so young who make such a commitment to serve. . .

Sitting by my computer as I write this, a ripe mango tempts me. I picked it up off the grounds of the Mission Houses Museum from trees that real Queens admired long ago. History, beauty, sustenance, aloha, all offer themselves freely under isle skies. You see, in Hawaii living a rich life is less about money than it is in most other places. Sure, our visitors and we can find here all the things that money can buy (in abundance!) but Honolulu's real treasure is found in our environment, and in each other; it's about attitude, engagement and down-home enjoyment of all the cultures that make up our unique chop-suey island. . . the sorts of things you discover. . . when you're walking in Waikiki. Aloha! cloudiacharters@msn.com

Walking in Waikiki

With Cloudia Charters, "Merrie Signs of Spring", April 16, 2008

Spring Time may mean Easter bunnies, blossoms, and baskets of chocolate eggs to you (ok, to me too) but the really big excitement last week was the 45^th annual Merrie Monarch Festival of Hula and Chant in Hilo Town on the Big Island. For over 20 years I have joined the scores of local residents who plop down in front of their TV for those Thursday, Friday, and Saturday nights to celebrate the best of hula (which, remember, very nearly didn't survive to our day).

Year after year, like at a family reunion, we watch familiar and new Kumu Hula bring their Halau to the big dance, each celebrating their own hula lineage. And speaking of family traditions, this year's "Miss Aloha Hula" Kalimakuhilani Akemi Kalamanamana Suganuma is a spring blossom with some great roots of her own. She is the great granddaughter of the revered Mary Kawena Pukui, author (with Samuel Elbert) of THE Hawaiian Dictionary. The 20 year-old University of Hawaii student danced to chants her great grandmother had preserved, and which are considered to be among the "crown jewels" of Hawaiian culture.

Of course Honolulu boasts literal crown jewels downtown in the Iolani Palace, but that's another story altogether . . . A Hollywood story! The palace grounds were recently all "lights-camera-ACTION!" for the filming of a bio-pic about (local girl) Princess Ka'iulani. The gracious and beautiful young princess (half Scottish on her father Cleghorn's side) is commemorated by a lovely statue in the triangle at Kuhio & Kaiulani Streets, which includes one of her beloved peacocks. Ainahau, her Waikiki home, was nearby. . .

But before we leave the Big Island entirely, let's pause to admire the late winter snow atop Maunakea and to ponder the first gas explosion at Kilauea since 1924. Gravel flew for acres the other evening but injured no one. Shield volcanoes, like Kilauea, usually ooze slow-moving lava flows, which is why this one has been called "the world's only drive-in volcano."

In fact, a new parking/viewing area has been opened by the county a mere 600 feet from the flow that is currently entering the ocean. What a show! And free too. Just drive towards the pillar of thick, infernal steam that advertises "new Hawaii land created here." (Yes, sort of like a sign) They say that isle property is expensive because it's a limited commodity, but lava land is surprisingly affordable. Like a few acres for under $10,000.

Of course volcano goddess Madam Pele might turn her attention your way again, but it's real country living "off the grid" where folks use rain water catchment, solar panels, and generators, relying on themselves and their neighbors. It takes a special breed.

Kalapana resident Edmund Orian told a local reporter: "Living near a volcano keeps you aware that God is in control. If the lava comes, we can always move." My niece Amber was born in a house by the famous black sand beach of Kalapana, a beach that exists no more, buried now under tons of lava. The ocean shore is now hundreds of acres further east. . .

Closer to home: Honolulu's oldest city park, Thomas Square, (across from the Honolulu Academy of Arts) looks – um – different since the recent removal of the truly GIGANTIC ear pod tree that had been a landmark for 75 years. The whole character of the park, heck of the entire Ward & King intersection, is really altered. Sun shines where the sun didn't shine before! (Though the square still boasts some amazing foliage) Age finally caught up with the venerable giant, and public safety demanded compassionate action.

A new tree is promised for the site. Great Hawaiian name, "Thomas", isn't it? Actually the park gratefully commemorates 19^th century British admiral Thomas who restored Hawaiian royal sovereignty after it had been wrongfully claimed by a British navy warship sometime before. This incident throws light on the British Union Jack becoming part of our Hawaii flag, and the naming of prominent Beretania (Hawaiian for "Britannia") Street. Perhaps it also speaks to Queen Lili'uokalani's steadfast faith that the United States too would redress her 1893 overthrow, which had tacitly occurred under cover of the USS Boston's guns and complement of U.S. Marines. . .

A wonderful sign of old times: the neon McCully Chop Sui sign at King & McCully is shining brightly once again. It is a beacon of nostalgia to those who remember a smaller, slower Honolulu Town where kau kau at family-run MCS (1940 – 2006) may have preceded a professional baseball game, motorcycle race, boxing match or Elvis concert, at the fondly remembered "Termite Palace" of Honolulu Stadium a few blocks further down King Street.

Vintage Art & Memorabilia mavens Carolyn and Mark Blackburn chose the location (and the weathered sign) when they moved their Mauna Kea Galleries from the Big Island over a year ago. It took all that time (and some $10,000) for them to negotiate the bureaucracy, have the landmark sign restored and repaired, and to give wonderful memories back to the appreciative neighborhood. Well done! Mahalo. . .

Animal Patrol: Our little third mate here on the boat, Miss Kitty, enjoyed her annual driving lesson a few days ago. She'll agree to a veterinarian check-up ONLY if we allow her to "drive" the last blocks home with a licensed (human) driver's hands over her paws at the wheel. She really seems to enjoy steering, standing in a friendly lap, and watching all the activity ashore. (Hey! Watch where you're going!!)

All went well until she demanded a quick visit to the neighborhood bar. Sitting politely in a booth, she charmed everyone and declined several friendly drink offers. Speaking of clever animals, wild sea birds have found the recently refurbished Lagoon between the Ala Wai Harbor and the Hilton Hawaiian Village. I even saw a pair of mallard ducks there the other day! A more permanent new neighbor is an Australian Black Swan called "Olive" who recently moved here from Vegas. Something about the frenetic pace there clashed with her "swanning about" personality, so she is now an official Hilton guest with cushy food plan, and medical – but no driving lessons. We welcome her – she sounds like our kind of laid back "local style" bird. . .

Road Sign: The parking/viewing area at the Halona Blowhole on east-side O`ahu's spectacular Ka Iwi coastline will remain closed until September when it is scheduled to re-open in time for Whale watching season. Still one of life's great coastal drives, though, and the "blow" remains visible from further down the way. . Remember, walking builds strong bones, muscles, joints, heart, and lungs with little risk of injury. Whether you're "walking to New Orleans" or strolling down the beach, simple locomotion melts away stress and pounds! Won't you join me? I'll look for you the next time I'm Walking in Waikiki. . . ALOHA!

Walking In Waikiki, With Cloudia Charters, LIVING TREASURES, Mar. 29, 2008

We in Hawaii are lucky to have neighbors who are 'living treasures' some officially recognized, and some who embody and share cultural riches within their families, ohana, or neighborhood. Then there are special people who are 'treasures that will live forever.'

We lost two of them this month: Aunty Genoa Keawe and slack key master/ teacher Ray Kane. Both of them were more than musicians. They were amazing and genuine humans beings. Their music was a rich part of our environment, but their role in keeping humane and technical traditions alive in a time of great change (when much was being lost) remains their true gift.

Like Diamond Head, like the green Ko`olau mountains, they had seemingly always been around – most of us never knew a time without their guidance, without the consolation of their song. Each of them shared their mastery freely, and they each left disciples to carry on. But we will miss their personalities, their presence, just BE-ing around them.

I enjoyed seeing Aunty sing many times, and her heavenly countenance never dimmed. Even with me, a nobody, she found time to share a smile or a little

warm-hearted joke. They lived amazing long lives, and they left us much more than technique and deathless recordings. They left us with examples that define our way of life here in Hawaii. Even as we celebrate their lives and masterwork, we feel shock and pain suffused with deep gratitude. This passing of giants, of a golden age, reminds us to appreciate each and every day. And to let each person we love know that they irreplaceable 'living treasure' to us. . .

The phone rang at midnight – you can imagine how I felt! Too early even for an east coast caller forgetting the time difference. The voice on the other end said: "I'm calling about a cat." A cat?! Is this a joke? "Someone found a slightly injured orange tom wandering on Diamond Head. His microchip has your phone number. I'm calling from the SPCA."

My eyes shot open. Could this be our 2000 adoptee who jumped ship after just a week with our household? We'd taken to referring to him as 'Houdini' for his disappearing act. "Yes, 2000. That's right. What shall we do with him?" By now I had located the prodigal's 'sister' Miss Kitty (adopted that same day) peacefully sleeping on a pile of (formerly) clean laundry. The prospect of dragooning the escapee back to our boat in chains (or a cat carrier) didn't sit right. "Well. . . Um. . ." I said.

"That's OK. The guy who found him wants to adopt him. Whew! These days we enjoy imagining Houdini's wanderings among the low bushes and back streets of Waikiki. We marvel at his 8 years of survival and his amazing luck in finding a friend just in time to retire (mostly) indoors. We like to think of him in his new pal's lap, remembering his many adventures and enjoying a warm hand on his head. . .

Speaking of Diamond Head cats: Berani, the 245 pound male Sumatran tiger at the Honolulu Zoo (at the foot of DH) strolled casually out of his un-latched enclosure the other morning for a walk. Luckily it was hours before the zoo opens, especially since his next-door neighbor is the children's petting zoo/playground, usually SWARMING with (presumably) delicious youngsters and their unarmed grown-ups. In true laid back isle style Berani (described as the "friendliest" of the Sumatrans) took a quick glance around, yawned, and then casually slinked back home again.

City officials were less relaxed about the whole thing, immediately installing new auto-latching devices and several more yards of fencing. I can't help wondering what advice Houdini might have given Berani about survival in Beach Town as they rummaged the dumpsters of Lemon Road. . .

And Speaking of the Zoo: elephants are intelligent. Hey, that rhymes! And it sure is true. Local Indian elephants Mari and Vaigai immediately fixed their expressive dark eyes on us and approached as close as practicable when I pulled out my bamboo flute and played some simple rhythmic toots for them the other day. I managed to continue playing gently even as they swayed side to side and my mind screamed: "Are you SEEING this!" Both elephants answered with deep subtle vocalizations. Chicken skin moment!

Hey, visitors and locals alike seem to be using those new freestanding sidewalk "Explore Waikiki" maps. Good idea! And mahalo plenty to the Honolulu Star-Bulletin's "Water Ways" columnist Ray Pendleton who kindly pointed out my writing "heron" when I meant "egret" in the last column. The man knows boating, AND birds. . .

Big Island Detour: Volcano goddess Pele, solemnly considered "Tutu" or grandmother by Big Island Hawaiians, is putting on quite a show as her lava flows into the sea. Just this week saw a rare explosion (the first since 1924) spewing rocks and ash over 75 acres. A much larger area had to be closed because of toxic, acidic gasses issuing from the pit. But a viewing trail for visitors remains open, just please heed local advice and precautions!

Perhaps you caught the Travel Channel's Tony Bourdain on his recent Hawaii episode. If you did, you saw Tony having a meal with the last hold-out in Royal Gardens Subdivision. That lonely house has at last been reclaimed by Pele. Great timing, Tony! A safer alternative is to visit the web site of one of our local media outlets for thrilling video on your desktop. (kgmb, kitv, khnl, khon or local press!) No lava-walking for me, though. I'm too busy enjoying the beauty right here. . . Walking in Waikiki. . . ALOHA!

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